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Issue link: https://opticallabproducts.epubxp.com/i/233472
LAB ARTISANSHIP Custom work is a prime example of the need for artisanship in the independent lab. lab managers and owners I've spoken to is that the large retail driven labs are just that, too large to produce consistent quality. Quality is the hallmark, and the means of survival, for the independent lab in today's competitive marketplace. Additionally, after interviewing several opticians and doing extensive research concerning the retail giants, I have learned that the Big Box stores initially provide a limited selection of lens products due to cost. This means they have the ability to price products low, thus limiting competition. This lack of choice for both the ECP and the consumer limits the quality of the end product. One optician, who had worked for several famous-name eyewear retail outlets, told me that within a short time, usually around three months, the initial great offering made by mega-retailers would fall far short in quality. Problems such as coater dots, scratches, inaccurate edging, Rx issues, can all contribute to an ECP's practice of frequently changing labs. Quality is something that an independent lab consistently provides. If not, they are soon out of business. EQUIPMENT ADVANCES Even with the technical advances in today's edgers (i.e., those with multiple and adjustable bevel settings), certain skill sets on the part of the fnishing technician are still needed to produce a superior product. According to Chris Bowers, operations manager of Walman Optical Co., the largest independent ophthalmic company in the U.S., "It seems to me that we are always behind the frame makers. Even with 5-axis milling, we still need to 'fnesse' certain frames and lenses." Despite the large margin for error totallyoptical.com and potential breakage in diffcult cases, it doesn't mean the customer shouldn't expect the most accurate work possible from their lab. Being adept at handling demanding challenges is where the independent lab has a competitive edge. It is also the area where the most opportunity lies. Custom work is a prime example of the need for artisanship in the independent lab. Depending on the product mix and the primary focus of the independent lab, fnish work generally accounts for the largest percentage of products, around 80% to 92%. Although specialized work is not the bulk of fnished work done at independent optical labs, it still represents a sizable portion of the workfow. Executives at Walman and K Optical both agree that the amount of fnished work requiring additional attention is around 10%. Rimless or drill-mount eyewear are examples of specialized work because, without exception, they are a hands-on job. RIMLESS AND DRILL MOUNTS The popularity of rimless or drill-mount eyewear has skyrocketed in the last few years. The work involved in producing a high-quality fnished drill-mount product requires expertise. It also requires attention to detail, an understanding of the design and fabrication concepts, and a need to follow fnishing and mounting protocols. These prerequisites should all be attributes of lab technicians at independent labs. An important aspect of drill-mount eyewear that the lab technician must pay extra attention to is the lens edge itself. Since there is no eyewire encasing the lens, a safety bevel is required. Any edge sharpness must be removed by additional hand edging. A lab technician must ensure that the safety bevel itself is cosmetically appealing. In other words, they cannot use too strong a bevel or the lens will lose its appeal. Technicians must have the skills necessary to touch up the lens edge with a hand edger to perfect the fnished lens. The stability of fnished drill-mount eyewear is of paramount importance. The frame pieces must be frmly seated in the lens because any unwanted movement will eventually cause the frame to loosen—resulting in unwanted visual aberration. Knowing when the correct tightness has been reached is an ability that can only be developed through experience. If it's too tight the lens could snap, if it's too loose the optics will be off. The quality of the fnished product should be determined by the lab technician. There are times when a job will not be edged to the correct size or shape. The lens could go through the edging process with the tracing distorted because of a bad trace. A misshaped pattern, or an enclosed tracing that isn't quite right, can also cause problems. Bevel issues are also a major concern. It now becomes the responsibility of the lab technician to not only notice imperfections but to remedy the situation by manipulating the size and shape of the lens. The extra care needed to work with some of these diffcult jobs, especially poorly designed fashion frames, can only be accomplished by a competent technician. This type of technician is becoming extinct at Big Box manufacturers, but is prized by the independent lab. FEATURE CUSTOM WORK Finally, experienced technicians can do custom edging and specialized work such as lens engraving. Obviously, it takes technologically advanced equipment to do this type of edging. But it also takes an eye for detail, extensive knowledge of the equipment, creativity, and talent. In the fnal analysis, as high-tech as the machinery might be, it is dependent on the technician to enter the correct data, and to make the necessary tweaks to get the optimal result. "I have seen, over the last 28 years, knowledge and skill levels go down" says Kirman. Furthermore, "I think for quality eyewear a lab needs skilled artisans to fnish the diffcult jobs." While increased automation in lens processing has resulted in more productivity and effciency, an unforeseen consequence of advanced technology is less hands-on attention to detail. There are those in the industry who proclaim that technology has replaced artisanship in the lab. Nevertheless, when it comes down to those troublesome "hands-on" jobs, labs will always need the skills of an ophthalmic laboratory artisan. Or to put it in Bowers' words: "A great bench person is worth their weight in gold." Steven Warfeld is a skilled lab technician and freelance writer based in Harrisburg, PA. An experienced technician can do custom edging and specialized work like lens engraving. january 2014 13